The following is a detailed tutorial on how to sew the skirt side seams and pockets of the Kendra Dress sewing pattern.
Please note that in the following tutorial the raw edges are NOT finished because my serger sewing machine was being serviced at the time that I wrote this tutorial.
Pattern Instructions STEP 15
The PDF pattern instructions are for inserting a regular zipper. If you are inserting an invisible zipper, you will want to skip Step 15, and stitch the center back seam after inserting the invisible zipper.
With right sides together, pin together the two SKIRT BACKS (8) and stitch using a 3/4" (2cm) seam allowance at center back between the circle and hem. Press the seam open. If you are finishing the inside seams of the dress skirt, finish the raw edge of the center back seam. You may want to do the seam finishes now for the side seams and pockets as well, depending on the seam finish you choose.
With right sides together, pin the two SKIRT BACKS (8). Stitch using a 3/4" (2cm) seam allowance at center back between the circle and the hem.
Pattern Instructions STEP 16
Matching the circles and with rights sides together, pin the POCKET (4) pieces that are cut from the SELF FABRIC to the skirt back. Stitch between the circles using 1/2" (1.3mm) seam allowance. Press the seam towards the pocket.
Matching the circles and with right sides together, pin the POCKET (4) pieces that are cut from the SELF FABRIC to the skirt back.
Stitch between the circles using 1/2" (1.3cm) seam allowance.
Press the seam towards the pocket.
Pattern Instructions STEP 17
Repeat for the skirt front using the POCKET (4) pieces that are cut from the LINING. Press the seam towards the pocket.
Matching the circles and with right sides together, pin the POCKET (4) pieces that are cut from the LINING FABRIC to the skirt front.
Stitch between the circles using 1/2" (1.3cm) seam allowance.
Press the seam towards the pocket.
Pattern Instructions STEP 18
With right sides together stitch skirt front and skirt back together, leaving an opening between the circles.
With right sides together pin the skirt front to the skirt back, matching notches and the circles of the pockets.
Pin the side seam above and below the pocket opening.
Leave an opening between the circles. This is the opening for the pocket.
Stitch 1/2" (1.3cm) seam allowance, back stitching to secure at the circles. Be careful not to catch the fabric of the pocket.
Be sure that your stitches do not catch the fabric of the pocket.
Pattern Instructions STEP 19
Stitch the pocket edges together between the circles. Clip the skirt back seam allowance above and below the pocket to, but not through, the stitching. Press the side seam allowance open. Press the pocket towards the skirt front along the seamline.
Stitch the pocket edges together, using a 1/2" (1.3cm) seam allownce. Be sure to back stitch at the circles to secure, and be careful not to catch the side seam allowance. .
This is how it will look from the pocket lining side.
Clip the skirt back seam allowance above and below the pocket circles to, but not through, the stitching. Press the side seams open above and below the pocket opening.
On the front skirt only, understitch the pocket between the circles, to prevent the lining from 'rolling' towards the outside of the garment.
This is how it will look on the inside of the skirt front. Note: We use lining on the front skirt pocket to prevent bulk.
Press the pocket towards the front, pressing gently along the edge of the pocket lining edge.
This is how it will look from the outside of the garment.
In the next sew-along we will attach the skirt to the bodice.