The following is a detailed tutorial on how to sew the skirt pleats of the Kendra Dress sewing pattern.
Please note that in the following tutorial the raw edges are NOT finished because my serger sewing machine was being serviced at the time that I wrote this tutorial.
Pattern Instructions STEP 11
If you plan to finish the inside raw edges of the dress skirt, you will need to finish the edges of the pleats BEFORE assembling them. See this great video tutorial on how to finish inside corners here. The same technique demonstrated in this video can be applied to a zig-zag seam finish if you do not have an overlock or serger machine.
Pattern Instructions STEP 12
To make the SKIRT FRONT (7) and SKIRT BACK (8) inverted pleats, begin by bringing together the sides of the pleats, right sides together, and pin. Using a 1/2" (1.3cm) seam allowance, begin stitching from the empire waistline down to the bottom of the pleat. Stop stitching 1/2" (1.3cm) below the raw edge of the pleat and back stitch to secure. Press seam open.
It is important to back stitch when stitching the pleats, in order to secure them and keep them from pulling apart during wear.
The vertical edges are the 'sides' of the pleats.
To make the pleats, bring the sides of the pleats together, right sides together.
Place a pin to mark where your stitching will end at the bottom of the pleat. This is 1/2" (1.3cm) from the raw edge.
Pin the pleat together before stitching.
Using a 1/2" (1.3cm) seam allowance, begin stitching from the empire waistline down to the bottom of the pleat.
Stop stitching 1/2" (1.3cm) below the raw edge of the pleat and back stitch to secure.
Press the seam open.
Pattern Instructions STEP 13
Fold the pleat along the foldline guideline that you transferred from the pattern to your fabric and pin. Continue to pin along the top of the pleat lining up the raw edges. The center of the pleat will line up with the center of the seam that you stitched in Step 12, creating an inverted pleat.
Fold the pleat along the foldline guideline that you transferred from the pattern to your fabric. It is faint in this photo, but you can see the white transfer mark if you look carefully!
Place a pin along this foldline.
Continue to pin along the top of the pleat lining up the raw edges. The center of the pleat will line up with the center of the seam that you stitched in Step 12, creating an inverted pleat.
Pattern Instruction STEP 14
Being careful not to catch the fabric of the skirt, begin stitching from the folded edge of the pleat a 1/2" (1.3cm) down from the raw edge, and stop stitching at the seam* that you stitched in Step 12 and back stitch to secure. Stitch the other side of the pleat, beginning on the other side of the seam, and sewing to the folded edge of the pleat.
*NOTE Be careful to stitch 'to but not beyond' the seam that you stitched in Step 12.
Back stitching to secure, begin stitching from the folded edge of the pleat, begin careful not to catch the fabric of the skirt. Stop stitching at the seam that you stitched in Step 12, and back stitch again to secure.
Be careful to stitch 'to but not beyond' the seam that you stitched in Step 12.
Stitch the other side of the pleat, beginning on the other side of the seam, and sewing to the folded edge of the pleat. (This requires moving the fabric of the skirt towards the back of your presser foot.)
Again, be sure to sew 'to but not beyond' the seam you sewed in Step 12.
Both sides of the pleat are stitched, creating an inverted pleat.
Press the seam open.
Continue making each pleat in this manner for both the front and back of the skirt.
On some of the smaller sizes the pleats will overlap a bit which is completely fine.
There is no need to sew the pleats down or to topstitch them. If the fabric has enough body the pleats will keep their shape.
Continue sewing the pleats on the back.
It is only necessary to press the seam of the pleat, and not the pleat itself. This will give the pleats a softer, rounded look, rather than a flat crisp look, which I think is preferable.
The next sew-along tutorial demonstrates how to add the pockets and to sew the skirt fronts and backs together.