The following is a detailed tutorial on how to attach the bodice shell to the lining of the Kendra Dress sewing pattern.
These instructions for attaching the bodice lining to the shell are done in specific steps to incorporate under-stitching. Under-stitching is an important component of the instructions. This under-stitching technique ensures that the lining will not 'peak out' or 'roll out' from the inside to the outside when the dress is being worn.
Pattern Instructions STEP 6
To achieve a crisp V in the front neckline, stitch the two sides of the V separately. With right sides together, pin the lining to the fabric at the front neckline, matching the circles and center front. Stitch from the shoulder down and stop at the circle without catching the center front seam allowance and back stitch to secure. Repeat on the other side. Press seam towards lining. Understitch. Press lining to inside.
If you have been following along with the Kendra Sew-Along you will note that the center front seam stitching DOES NOT go all the way to the raw edge of the neckline, but rather stops at the circle of the neckline, indicated by the marking on the paper pattern. This is very important. If you mistakenly stitched to the edge of the neckline, I recommend that you use a seam ripper to remove the stitches and secure your stitching as far as this circle.
With rights sides together, pin the lining to the bodice at the front neckline, being sure to line up the center front seam.
Stitch from the shoulder seam to the circle at the center front seam, without catching the center front seam allowance. The neckline is cut on the bias so be careful not to stretch your fabric as you are sewing.
Repeat this on the other side of the neckline.
The center front seam of the lining is left free and not caught in the neckline stitching.
The center front seam of the bodice is left free and not caught in the neckline stitching.
Turn your bodice so the wrong side is up. Position on the TAILORS HAM and press the seam towards the lining. For a crisp seam, gently pull the lining 'taut' as you press lightly.
Turn over with right side up and lightly press again, pressing the seam towards the lining.
With the seam pressed toward the lining, stitch close along the entire seam on the lining side, through all three layers of fabric, stopping 1/2" (1.3cm) from the V at the center front neckline.
This is what the understitching will look like from the inside of the garment. Stop stitching about 1/2" (1.3cm) away from the V of the center front neckline.
Position the neckline over the curve of the TAILOR'S HAM and gently press the neckline.
The V-neckline and seams should look crisp and tailored.
The understitching will prevent the lining from showing on the right side, and the fabric will turn in just a little for a nice crisp look. The V-neckline should not be pulling.
IMPORTANT: TO SEW THE BACK NECKLINE NEXT YOU WILL NEED TO TURN YOUR WORK SO THAT THE LINING AND BODICE SHELL ARE RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER AGAIN.
Pattern Instruction STEP 7
With right sides together, pin the lining to the fabric at the back neckline, matching the circles. Stitch from shoulder to the circle at center back, and back stitch to secure. Press seam toward lining. Understitch. Press lining to inside.
With right sides together, pin the lining and the bodice together along the back neckline.
Stitch the back neckline from the shoulder seam to the circle at the center back. The neckline is cut on the bias, so be careful not to stretch your fabric as you are sewing.
Turn your bodice so the wrong side is up. Position on the TAILORS HAM and press the seam towards the lining. For a crisp seam, gently pull the lining 'taut' as you are press lightly.
Turn over with right side up and lightly press again, pressing the seam towards the lining.
With the seam pressed toward the lining, stitch close along the entire seam on the lining side, through all three layers of fabric, stopping 1/2" (1.3cm) from the circle at the center back neckline.
Clip the seam at center back along the center back seam allowance "to but not through" the neckline stitching.
By clipping this seam once it allows you to turn the lining to the inside and release the center back seam allowance which will make inserting the zipper easier.
Turn the lining to the inside of the garment and fold the clipped edges inward along the seam allowance.
By clipping the corner of the seam at the center back it releases the fabric and allows you to create the shape below. This will make inserting the zipper easier.
Lay the back neckline seam over the curve of the TAILORS HAM and lightly press.
So at this point the front and back necklines are sewn and under stitched.
IMPORTANT: TO SEW THE ARMHOLE NEXT YOU WILL NEED TO TURN YOUR WORK SO THAT THE LINING AND BODICE SHELL ARE RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER AGAIN.
Pattern Instruction STEP 8
With right sides together, pin the lining to the fabric at the armhole, matching circles and side seams. Stitch from circle to circle. Clip 'to but not through' the stitching on the curve. Finger press seams towards lining. Understitch the lining between the circles. Press lining to inside.
With right sides together pin the lining to the bodice starting at the side seam.
I recommnend pinching the fabric on the seam allowance at the side seams and then flipping it over to check that it is positioned correctly before pinning. Pin and recheck. You might have to do this a time or two to make sure you get them to match.
Continue to pin the lining to the bodice along the armhole seam allowance, matching the princess seams, and circles that you transferred from the pattern to the fabric. When stitching the armhole you will only stitch between the two circles.
Beginning at one circle mark begin sewing the armhole seam, removing the pins as you go.
The armhole seam will look like this. If your fabric is thick or has a lot of texture to it you could GRADE your seam allowances at this point. I didn't in this tutorial as my fabrics are not bulky.
Clip the armhole seam 'to but not through' the stitching. Clipping every inch or so around the curve.
Lay the armhole seam on the TAILORS HAM and very lightly press the seam towards the lining, or finger press.
With the seam pressed toward the lining, stitch close along the seam on the lining side, through all three layers of fabric, between the two circles.
Turn the lining back to the inside of the bodice (wrong sides together).
Lay the armhole over the TAILORS HAM and gently press the seam so it lies flat.
This is what the bodice will look like for now from the inside or lining side.
This is what the bodice will look like on the outside (right side).
Pattern Instruction STEP 9
With rights sides together, lay the front shoulder over the back, lining up the neckline seams, to form the armhole. Open up the shoulder seam, and pin the bodice front and bodice back together, matching the neckline seam. Stitch the shoulder seam. Press seam to back.
The armhole seam was left slightly open so that the shoulder seam can be stitched. It will allow you to open the seam on both pieces and stitch them together. After the shoulder seam is sewn, the armhole seam will be slip stitched closed.
With rights sides together, lay the front shoulder over the back, lining up the neckline seams.
Line the neckline seams up to match with each other. Pin.
Working from the neckline, pin the rest of the fabric along the shoulder to the raw edge.
Working from the neckline, pin the rest of the lining along the shoulder to the raw edge.
Check to be sure that the shoulders are matched and form the armhole properly before sewing. It is easy to twist these around the wrong way.
Once you know that the everything is properly lined up, open the shoulder seam back up to prepare for stitching.
Stitch the shoulder seam using a 1/2" (1.3cm) allowance, sewing across the fabric and lining.
Remove the pins as you come to them. The seam allowance of the neckline will automatically be pressed towards the lining from the understitching that you did in the previous steps.
Finish stitching the shoulder seam.
Press the shoulder seam towards the back.
Pattern Instruction Step 10
Turn in the remaining armhole edges along the seamlines. Press. Slip stitch the lining to the fabric along the armhole edge, creating a smooth continuous line.
Fold the raw edges of the armhole in 1/2" (1.3cm).
Using the TAILORS HAM press the armhole lightly to form a smooth line from front to back, folding in the raw edges.
There will be several inches of open seam that now will require slip stitching.
Pin the open seam in place.
Begin slip stitching. I start by making a knot in my thread and burying my thread into the seam allowance.
Slip stitch the opening closed. Remove your pins as you work.
Finish the slip stitching and secure the end by back stitching several stitches.
Bury the end of the thread by pulling it through the fabric like below.
Cut the thread.
The armhole should look smooth and the seam is now closed.
Lay it over the TAILORS HAM for one final light press.
This completes the sewing of the bodice. This is how the bodice front should look.
This is how the bodice back should look.
