Adley Shirt Sew-Along: Cuffs and Sleeves, Part 1

The Adley shirt has a classic shirt cuff with a two piece sleeve placket and a drop shoulder set-in sleeve.  It is surprisingly easy to insert a sleeve placket.  Get a clean and professional look using this tutorial as a guide.

SLEEVE PLACKET

I prefer a two-piece sleeve placket application, rather than a one-piece like the ones you find in a lot of the tutorials on the internet.  It not only allows for contrast fabric applications, but it's also easier to insert, in my opinion.

Prepare the plackets by pressing along the center fold lines, and pressing under 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances of the plackets.  (Refer to the diagram in the instruction booklet.)  This is not required, but I do believe that it makes working with the placket a little easier.

To prepare the sleeve for the plackets, cut the sleeve fabric along the center line to the bottom of the triangle as indicated on the pattern.

With right sides together, pin the under placket onto the sleeve matching the raw edges with the bottom of the sleeve and with the edge of the center cut.  NOTE:  The under placket always goes on the narrower side.

I try to indicate the location of the circle by placing my pin on an angle, so I know to end my stitching at that pin.

Stitch using a 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance ending at the circle.

Clip the shirt fabric only 'to but not through' diagonally to the stitching.

Press the seam towards the placket.

Fold the placket in half.  Turn under 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance along remaining long edge of placket.

Pin the placket from the right side being sure to catch the inside edge of the placket underneath.  It's easiest to do this by inserting the pin through the seam being sure to catch the edge of the placket on the other side.

This is what it looks like from the inside when it is pinned.  You can see where my pins 'catch' the edge of the placket on the inside.  The top of the placket should be laying on the right side.

'Stitch in the ditch' between the circle and raw edge along the placket, catching the inside edge.  You can top-stitch this placket however I prefer to 'stitch in the ditch' for a cleaner look.

The stitches will hardly be visible from the right side.

This is what it looks like from the wrong side.  See how my stitches have caught the edge of the placket.

With right sides together, place the upper placket on to the sleeve, matching the raw edges with the bottom of the sleeve and with the edge of the center cut.  You can see how I place the last pin on a slight angle, indicating the location of the circle.

You can check this location by measuring it against the pattern if your markings are hard to see.

Stitch 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance ending at the circle.

Clip the shirt fabric only 'to but not through' diagonally to the stitching.

After clipping diagonally you will have this little triangle.  This will be folded under and stitched down securely in the next steps.

Press the seam towards the placket.

Turn under 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance along remaining long edge of placket and the short top edge.  Fold the placket in half along the fold line.

Fold the small triangle upward toward the right side of the garment.

This is the back side.  See how the triangle has been folded towards the right side.  The top of the under placket should also be on the right side.  When the upper placket is sewn down it will encase both of these.

Pin the placket in place repeating the same pinning method as the under placket, being sure to catch the edge of the placket on the inside.  Place a pin horizontally just above the fold of the triangle as a guide for your top-stitching which will encase this.

Starting at the bottom edge, edge-stitch along the placket's edge.

Pivot when you reach the top of the placket.

Pivot again to stitch down the opposite side.

Pivot one more time to stitch across the triangular piece to secure it in place.  Do not back stitch, as you can bury your stitches on the wrong side.

Pull your threads to the wrong side.  Tie them off and bury the ends into the back of the placket.  Trim the ends.   That completes the sleeve placket application.

PLEATS

To make the two pleats bring the small circles to the large circles.

The pleat should face the wider section of the sleeve.

Finger press and pin.

Stitch just inside the 1/2" (6 mm) seam allowance to hold in place.

Clip the threads.  This will hold it in place until the cuff is added.