Adley Shirt Sew-Along: Darts, Pleats, and Back Yoke

Do you know how to use the 'burrito method' to sew a yoke?  If you don't please read this post to see how it is done.  It leaves the inside of your garment looking as great as the outside of your garment.  And the best part is it is pretty easy to do!!

FRONT DARTS:

To sew the darts, with right sides together, bring together the lines or 'legs' of the dart and stitch.

Tie the ends at the point to secure.

Press the darts towards the hem.

BACK BOX-PLEAT:

To make the box pleat on BACK (2) match the large circle with the small circle, finger-pressing the pleat towards the center back.

Fold the pleat towards the center back.

This will create a box pleat.

Pin in place.

Baste across the top of the pleat 1/2" (1.3cm) down from the raw edge to hold in place.

BACK YOKE:

With right sides together, and matching the notches, baste the YOKE (4) to the back.  Pin the yoke facing to the back with wrong side of the back and right side of the yoke facing together, again matching the notches.

Stitch 1/2" (1.3cm) seam through all 3 layers.

Grade the seam.   This will eliminate bulk at the seam.  The widest of the seams should be closest to the right side of the garment, and then gradually trim away to eliminate the bulk.

With right sides together, place the front onto the back.  Pin to the yoke ONLY at the shoulders, leaving the yoke facing free.

Using the THE BURRITO METHOD roll up the front and back together towards the shoulder seam to expose the yoke facing.

Flip the facing up to match the shoulders with the yoke.

Pin in place.

Stitch the shoulders together, stitching through all layers.  Grade the shoulder seam, with the widest part of the seam closest to the outside of the garment.

Pull the rolled up shirt through the hole of the neck.

Things will look a little wrinkled after you pull everything through.

Press the shoulder seams so they lay smooth on the outside and inside of the garment.

Stitch the neckline just inside the seam allowance through all layers to hold in place.