Today marks the final post of the Adley shirt sew-along. We have covered a lot of ground. We've learned how to 'stitch in the ditch', insert a yoke using the 'burrito method', and I have talked a lot about my favorite pressing tools. In today's post I will walk you through every detail sharing my secret for setting a sleeve in smoothly and making your cuffs look clean and professional. So let's begin!!
Using a long basting machine stitch, stitch just inside the seam line of the sleeve cap between the notches. Do not pull on the threads. Let the cap of the sleeve gently ease up with the long stitch. This will make easing the sleeve into the armhole of the shirt much easier later.
Stitch between the notches only.
The cap on the right in this photo has been stitched. Compare this to the cap on the left that has not. It creates a nice gentle 'roll' to the cap of the sleeve with will make it much easier for setting in later.
With right sides together pin the sleeve seam.
Stitch the sleeve seam using a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance.
Finish the sleeve seam in your desired seam finishing method.
In order to press the sleeve properly use a sleeve board.
Press the finished seam towards the back. The back is indicated by the two notches of the sleeve cap.
The fusible interfacing was applied in the first step of the first tutorial. If you did not do this, apply the interfacing prior to the next step.
Turn in the 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance along the unnotched edge of the cuff. Press.
With right sides together, fold the cuff along the foldline and pin the ends to secure.
Stitch the ends.
Trim the corners to reduce bulk.
Turn the cuff right side out and press the seam. I like to use a point presser for this. I press the seam open which results in a very crisp seam once it is turned.
Turn the cuffs right side out, and press gently.
Pin the cuff to the sleeve, matching notches and finished edges. I allow the edge of the cuff to extend ever so slightly beyond the sleeve plackets. It helps it line up nicely once the cuff is stitched on and pressed.
Pin so finished edges of the sleeve and cuff match up.
It is helpful to remove the stitching platform from the machine.
Being sure to keep the pressed edge of the cuff free, begin stitching the cuff onto the shirt using a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance.
Remove the pins as you work.
Be sure to not catch the pressed edge of the cuff.
And voila! The cuff is attached to the sleeve!
Using the edge of the sleeve board, press the seam towards the cuff.
I am wrapping the inside of the cuff around the board, so I am only pressing the seam.
Turn the cuff in towards the seam.
Begin pinning encasing the seam inside the cuff. I pin from the front and catch the folded edge of the cuff on the inside. This is the same pinning method I used when inserting the plackets.
I pin on both sides first and then work my way into the center.
In the photo you can see how I caught the folded edge of the cuff on the inside.
From the right side 'stitch in the ditch' catching the folded edge of the cuff inside. Note: You can top-stitch this seam if you prefer. I like the clean look of this method but this is a personal preference.
This is what it will look like inside.
This is what it looks like on the outside. If you want to add top-stitching you can certainly do this now.
To inset the sleeve, with right sides together match the underarm seam of the shirt with the side seam of the shirt. Pin.
Note: There is front and back to each sleeve. Be sure you are inserting each sleeve facing the correct way. You can double check this by making sure the double and single notches match up.
Match the single and double notches of the sleeve and armhole. Pin
Pin the sections between the notches and the under arm seam.
Begin pinning the rest of the sleeve into the armhole. Try not to pull or stretch out the cap of the sleeve.
Finish pinning gently easing the cap of the sleeve into the armhole.
Begin stitching at the under arm seam using a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance.
Stitch just on the outside of the long stitch you did along the cap seamline.
After stitching, and before finishing the seam, check the outside of the sleeve to make sure that there are no puckers or creases in your sleeve.
Trim the thread ends.
Finish the seam with your desired seam finish.
I have a tailors pressing mitt. This is not a necessity. You can use a pressing ham instead. Gently press the seam towards the sleeve. I insert my hand into the pressing mitt, and hold it under the seam moving it along the seam as I press.
See how the pressing mitt fits so nicely into the cap of the shoulder and cap of the sleeve.
This is what the sleeve with look like. It is set in smoothly!!
I almost always mark my buttonholes after the garment is made rather than marking after cutting the pattern pieces. I measure the pattern and mark the garment using a tailors pencil.
Make the buttonhole and place the button accordingly.